How we are reimagining African heritage through ‘wearable art’ – Dimeji Ilori

For Lagos-based designer Dimeji Ilori, fashion is more than aesthetics. It is a cultural archive, a form of storytelling, and a bridge between Africa’s past and its evolving global identity. Drawing inspiration from pre-colonial African heritage, spirituality, artefacts, and craftsmanship, the brand has built a reputation for creating “wearable art” that blends tradition with modern elegance. Born and raised in Ilorin, Kwara State, founder Dimeji Ilori studied Physics at the University of Ilorin before venturing into fashion, where he now champions sustainability, craftsmanship, and Afrocentric storytelling. In this interview with KENNETH ATHEKAME, Ilori speaks on preserving African heritage through fashion, the realities of building a sustainable brand in Nigeria, and why cultural authenticity remains the soul of his creative process. Excerpts:

Your brand, DIMEJI ILORI, is deeply rooted in Afrocentric heritage. How do you define “wearable cultural storytelling” in today’s fashion landscape?

What we create is wearable art, garments designed with strong cultural and heritage references. For me, wearable cultural storytelling is about spotlighting our heritage, craftsmanship, and lived experiences through fashion. It is about telling our own stories instead of relying on Eurocentric narratives. Every piece becomes a medium through which African culture, identity, and history are expressed.

What inspired you to merge pre-colonial African heritage with modern fashion aesthetics?

My background played a major role. I grew up in Ilorin, which is a melting pot of cultures and social classes. You could move effortlessly between rural and urban lifestyles, from local weavers and pottery makers in old family compounds to modern buildings and computer centres. All of these experiences stayed with me subconsciously. So, when I began designing, it naturally became a fusion of both worlds — traditional handwoven aso-oke fabrics interpreted through modern tailoring, silhouettes, and contemporary aesthetics.

In a fast-paced global fashion industry, how do you maintain authenticity while staying relevant?

The most important thing is staying true to the soul and ethos of the brand. Our mission is rooted in heritage and cultural representation, not in competing with fast-fashion companies.

Authenticity comes from understanding who we are and why we exist as a brand.

Sustainable fashion is still evolving in Nigeria. What does sustainability mean to you within the local context?

What people now describe as sustainability is not entirely new to us. Africans have always lived sustainably. We have traditionally used natural materials for clothing and shelter, and even the culture of passing clothes from older siblings to younger ones reflects sustainability.

So, sustainability is already embedded in our culture and way of life.

What challenges have you faced sourcing sustainable materials or maintaining ethical production processes in Nigeria?

Running a business in Nigeria can feel like an extreme sport because the environment is difficult. From poor electricity supply to inadequate infrastructure, there are constant challenges.

One major issue is the lack of a structured supply chain and limited innovation among artisans. Many are deeply attached to traditional methods and can sometimes resist experimentation or new ideas.

There is also a shortage of skilled labour, especially tailors. Many young creatives want to immediately launch their own brands rather than work within existing systems, which affects production capacity.

Your designs draw from African artefacts, spirituality, and history. Can you walk us through your research and creative process?

Every collection begins with an idea. Sometimes it is inspired by a societal issue, an ongoing cultural conversation, or even a new material I want to experiment with.

Once I identify the concept, I begin extensive research. I often travel to northern Nigeria, where many of these materials are produced, to interact directly with artisans. Those conversations are invaluable because they reveal stories and knowledge you cannot find online or in books.

After gathering those insights, I return to the studio where the design and construction process begins.

How do you ensure that cultural elements are represented respectfully and not diluted for commercial appeal?

Authenticity starts from the source. I intentionally travel to communities where these crafts originate so I can learn directly from the artisans and collaborate with them closely.

The goal is cultural representation and preservation, not simply profit. That perspective guides every creative decision we make.

Do you see your work as cultural preservation, cultural evolution, or both?

It is both. Beyond sourcing fabrics and artefacts from local communities, we also educate artisans on innovation and new approaches that can improve their craft.

For instance, our latest project, Asotuntun, reimagines traditional Yoruba aso-oke by replacing conventional fibres with sustainable bamboo-based yarns. The result is a fabric that is lighter, silkier, and more fluid in texture.

That is an example of how we preserve tradition while also evolving it for a modern audience.

How would you describe the current state of Nigeria’s fashion and creative industry?

It is an exciting time because the world is paying attention to Nigerian fashion, heritage, and craftsmanship. African stories are becoming globally relevant.

However, there is still a lot of work to be done. We need stronger industry structures and a more developed manufacturing ecosystem because manufacturing is the backbone of any successful fashion industry.

Afrocentric fashion is gaining global recognition. How do you position DIMEJI ILORI within this movement?

DIMEJI ILORI stands as a cultural architect within this movement. What we create is deeply symbolic because it is rooted in our heritage and identity.

It cannot simply be replicated because it comes from lived experiences and cultural history.

What does global success look like for you?

Global success means strong cultural impact and helping to reshape perceptions about Nigeria and Africa beyond the continent.

I want the brand to become a cultural ambassador for Nigeria on the global stage.

You describe your pieces as “wearable art.” How do you balance artistic expression with commercial viability?

It is a constant balancing act. I create from an honest and emotional place, and I believe authenticity naturally resonates with people.

For me, creativity is intuitive and deeply connected to purpose.

Are there specific traditional techniques or artisans you collaborate with?

Yes. We collaborate with artisans across Ilorin, Osogbo, Kano, Benin, and Lagos.

The Ilorin and Osogbo artisans specialise in aso-oke weaving, Kano artisans focus on raffia weaving, while Benin artisans are known for bronze casting. In Lagos, we work with craftsmen across different disciplines.

How important is craftsmanship in differentiating your brand in a saturated market?

Craftsmanship is everything to us. It is the foundation of the brand.

The entire idea behind DIMEJI ILORI was rooted in cultural preservation and craftsmanship, so the artisans remain the backbone of our work.

Who do you design for?

We design for the Afro-urban community people who want to remain connected to their heritage while embracing a global lifestyle.

Our audience values culture, identity, and craftsmanship.

How do you see technology influencing sustainable fashion and storytelling in Nigeria?

Technology is essential to the future of fashion. Many designers are already integrating technology into design development and production processes.

Innovation and technological advancement will continue to shape sustainable fashion and storytelling in Nigeria.

Beyond fashion, what impact do you hope DIMEJI ILORI will have on African culture and identity?

Our mission is to inspire pride and cultural consciousness among Nigerians and Africans globally.

We want DIMEJI ILORI to stand as a symbol of African creativity, heritage, and identity on the world stage.